The last twenty-five years has seen an escalation in the restoration and supply of parts for classic cars, with more people trying their hand at a hobby in classic cars. Many are also turning to older cars as their daily transport, because running these much simpler vehicles can be more economical.

Car Types
The primary consideration is the type of car you would like. Many people, envisaging classic cars, conjure up images of open-top sports cars whisking young ladies down leafy country lanes, wind in the hair, picnic hamper strapped on to the boot rack. With the enormous choice of older sports cars, there is no reason not to indulge in this fantasy, assuming you have the required outlay to buy the car in the first place!
However, if you carry lots of gear in your car, or numerous passengers, choosing a sporty two-seater may no be for you. Selfish though it seems, not all children enjoy being wedged behind the two seats of an MGB, with the roof up and water dripping down their necks. Boot space is extremely limited in most two-seaters, so if shopping is a consideration, consider another type of car.

Cost
Austin or Morris may provide the cheapest way into classic car ownership. Even with these makes, there is a good selection of models. They are simple to work on, cheap to buy / run, with parts that can be found easily. Any of these, say the Minor or Somerset, offer proper period motoring without the hassle involved in running a rarer model. As a starter, choosing a car with a large following and readily available spares backup is a gentle beginning.

Size
The next consideration is the size of car. Your driveway and garage may well make this decision for you, so ensure that you know your space limitations. A 50s Cadillac will impress the neighbours, but finding that the rear 6' of bodywork won't fit into your dinky garage will leave you feeling demoralised and embarrassed. Starter classic saloons, for carrying two or three people, with minimal luggage, include:
  • Morris Minor
  • Austin A30
  • Standard 10
  • Triumph Herald
  • Ford Anglia 105E
However, if you need to carry a family, dog, and luggage, perhaps an Austin Cambridge, Triumph 2000, Volvo 120, Rover P4 or Ford, which are more spacious, might be a better choice.

Condition
Experts will stress repeatedly the importance of buying the best example. Restoration projects can be found cheaply, but can be very involved. Likewise, the patience required to find parts, for scarcer models especially, can put you off classics for life. Unless you want a big project, try to find a good runner, complete with M.O.T., instead.

Finding and Buying a Car
There are plenty of classic cars from which to choose, in differing states of repair. Your newsagent will stock old car magazines, all of which run classifieds, along with a price guide. Joining an owners' club can be an excellent way of buying a classic car. Such cars belong to club members, so will often be well maintained. Online websites are a large growth market for classic cars. Photos can be very deceptive, so be sure to see the car before bidding or buying. Whatever the source, professional inspection may save a lot of money in the long run and gives extra peace of mind too.

Tips on Buying a Good Car
Initial pointers that a car is worth viewing include:
  • Service histories
  • Photographs of restoration work
  • A one owner from new example
  • Weekend use only.
Bodywork
The first thing is to examine the bodywork. This is the biggest single expense when restoring most old cars. Having done your model-specific research, armed with your checklist of the known weak spots, you can begin to make an assessment. If caught early enough, most areas of corrosion can be repaired inexpensively, but all areas of rust must be inspected closely. Examine all the lower edges of panel work and anywhere where trim is screwed to panels. Water collects in the bottom of doors and if the drain holes are blocked will happily rust its way out. Front wings often show signs of tinworm around the headlamps, as dirt accumulates around the headlamp bowls and never fully dries out. Examine the suspension pickup mounts and the inner wings. Holes in any of these could render a car virtually worthless.

Engine
Listen to the engine started cold. Knocking indicates problems. Blue smoke suggests the valve seals and guides need replacement. If smoke continues to pour from the exhaust, an engine replacement is likely to be necessary. Check the oil after the engine has been turned off for at least five minutes, and on level ground. A white goo on the filler cap, or in the radiator/header tank, can be a sign of looming head gasket problems. If the engine is free from major dirt and grime, it signifies that the owner cares about the car. However, a gleaming engine in an otherwise average car can be achieved by jet washing, so take nothing for granted.

Test Drive
Test-driving is essential to gauge the condition of any classic car. Take the car on slow, roughly surfaced roads, and quicker, smooth "A" roads, to assess its capabilities in different environments. Listen for suspension clonks as you negotiate bumps in the road. Ease off the throttle suddenly when safe to do so, testing whether the car is prone to jumping out of gear, or puts out plumes of oil smoke.

A few hearty thumps on the brake pedal should highlight any deficiencies in that department. Wandering to one side on a level, straight piece of road, could be caused by the fact that:
  • The tracking is out on the front suspension
  • Mismatched tyre pressures
  • Damage to a wheel or suspension component.
Vibration via the steering wheel could be a wheel out of balance, a damaged wheel rim, or even an under inflated tyre.
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